Lyon, France is famously known as the Gastronomic Capital of the World due to the quality of fresh produce that come from the fertile land around Rhône-Alps region, as well as the number of top chefs that have come from this city. With so much to taste and experience among over 4,000 restaurants, 91 of which are on the Michelin Guide, there is one type of restaurant that you must try when visiting Lyon!
I lived in Lyon for 6 months while studying abroad, and have come back to visit a number of times since because I just can’t get enough of it’s charm. Even though I’m not originally from here, I consider myself a local because I’ve got to try so many different spots and this city really holds a big place in my heart.
In this blog, you’ll discover the unique Lyonnaise restaurants you can’t find anywhere else in the world, and why you should give them a try, along with my favorite spots in the whole city!
If your’re looking for ideas of what to see and do during your visit to Lyon, check out this blog!
At a Glance:
What is Traditionnel Lyonnaise Cuisine?
Discover Lyon’s Traditional Restaurants: The Bouchons
My Favorite Restaurants in Lyon
What is Traditional Lyonnaise Cuisine?
The Lyonnaise cuisine celebrates the rich local ingredients found in the region’s diverse landscapes, with freshwater delicacies from the Rhône and Saône rivers such as snails (escargot), frogs, and crayfish, and an abundance of livestock and fresh produce from the fertile farmlands. Adding to this variety of products, the vineyards of the Beaujolais region provide wine that pair beautifully with the traditional dishes!
The origins of Lyonnaise cuisine date back to the 19th century from the Mothers of Lyon, or les Mères Lyonnaise in French. These women were chefs for the bourgeoise families, and later on opened their own restaurants, transforming the gastronomic scene in Lyon. The focus of their cooking included ingredients like offal and pork, and incorporated seasonal produce into their menus.
The Lyonnaise cuisine is a testament to the city’s unique geographical location and cultural evolution. Whether enjoyed in a family-run bouchon or a Michelin star restaurant, you will be blown away by the taste of Lyon’s rich culinary history.
Here are 8 must try dishes when visiting Lyon:
- Quenelle à la sauce Nantua
This is dish is a personal favorite of all of the Lyonnaise classics. A quenelle is a French dumpling or brochet made with creamed fish, and topped with a crayfish sauce native to Lake Nantua, just north of Lyon and Annecy close to Switzerland. As someone who isn’t a big fan of fish, I was shocked at how much I enjoyed this dish! - Rosette lyonnaise
Rosette lyonnaise is a traditional charcuterie from the Rhône Alps region, made of thinly sliced cured pork sausage with garlic and spices. This is essential for a charcuterie and fromage night when in Lyon! - Tripes à la lyonnaise
Personally, I am not a fan of this dish, however it is a classic here! Tripe comes from the stomach lining of cows, pigs, or sheep, and has a very strong and distinct flavor. I ended up trying tripe at a bouchon because I thought it was a type of fish, but quickly realized I was very mistaken. If you like bold flavors then give the tripe a try! - Boudin noir
Boudin noir is a French blood sausage, also known as black pudding, made of pig’s fat and typically served with cooked apples. Though this is another dish with a very distinct flavor, I actually really enjoy boudin noir! - Une salade lyonnaise
La salade lyonnaise is one of my favorites because the ingredients are just so fresh, you can never go wrong here! A traditional salade lyonnaise is composed of frisée (endives), lardon (bacon), a poached egg, croutons, and dressed with a dijon mustard vinaigrette. - Cervelle de canut
Cervelle de canut literally translates to “silk-weaver’s brain”, referring to the trade that dominated Lyon throughout the 19th century. However, with cervelle de canut you will not be eating a brain! This is a dish made out of fromage blanc, a very soft cheese, almost with the consistency of a Greek yogurt, mixed with garlic, chives, shallots, red wine vinegar, and olive oil. This dish is typically served as an appetizer, or entrée in French. - Soupe à l’oignon
What is a list of traditional French dishes without including the classic French onion soup! Lyon of course takes pride in this staple and incorporates it throughout their bouchons. It’s a shame to not have at least one soupe à l’oignon when in France! - Dessert
For dessert or simply a goûter as you stroll through Lyon, anything with pralines is a must try! I particularly love the brioche aux pralines from Pralus and the tarte aux pralines. You can find these traditional desserts in almost any boulangerie, and the tarte aux pralines is a popular choice for dessert while dining at a bouchon.
Discover Lyon’s Traditional Restaurants: Les Bouchons
Les bouchons are traditional Lyonnaise restaurants offering local specialties in the form of a two or three course meal. These are the best places to really immerse yourself in French and Lyonnaise cuisine!
Throughout Lyon, there are just over 70 bouchons, with 20 of them being certified, so choosing one to try may be difficult. I have personally tried three of them, so you’ll find my reviews below.
Les Ventres Jaunes is my favorite bouchon in Lyon. Right in the heart of Vieux Lyon with a terrace where you can people-watch as you enjoy your meal, this spot was very enjoyable and affordable!
Here, I tried their “Bouchon” menu option which included an entrée, plat, and dessert (appetizer, main dish, and dessert) for just 24 euros. I feel like this is a really good deal for the amount of food you get!
I ordered the ham with melon, the quenelle à la sauce Nantua, and a tarte aux pralines for dessert. Everything was very tasty and would recommend coming here for your first bouchon experience!
Le Bouchon Rouge was the first bouchon I had tried in Lyon, and is perfect if you’re looking for a bit more of a modern experience as the restaurant has a more updated and classy interior. This spot would be good for a date night!
I don’t have any pictures of what I had, but I remember I had tried their quenelle à la sauce Nantua (the first time I ever tried it!) along with their tarte au chocolat for dessert. Both were really good!
For my last meal in Lyon before moving away after studying abroad, my friends and I decided to celebrate our semester at Au Comptoir les Gones in Vieux Lyon.
Overall, I really enjoyed my meal here! The French onion soup and tarte aux pralines were amazing. However, I wasn’t a fan of the tripe, but I ordered it thinking it was going to be fish so I was surprised once I learned what tripe actually was made of.
This spot is a good location if you’re looking for more of a quiet meal since it’s a smaller restaurant. It is also a more affordable option, with the three course meal I chose being 17.90 euros (19.90 euros as of 2024).
As a little bonus, here’s a picture of me and my friends after our last meal in Lyon (right before we cried)!
Bonus restaurant: La Gâche
La Gâche is a great restaurant to try if you’re wanting to experience typical Lyonnaise food but want to stay more on the safe side as some of the traditional dishes can be quite different that what you’re used to!
This restaurant has a bouchon inspired menu but is considered a “comptoir lyonnais” rather than being a bouchon due to it’s modernity and incorporation of other traditional French dishes. I came here once for lunch with friends while exploring Vieux Lyon one weekend and was impressed by the quality of the food!
While walking around before stopping to eat here, I had already eating a nutella crêpe from a stand so I wasn’t as hungry for a full lunch, so here I only ordered the Salade Lyonnaise. I really loved the fresh ingredients and the flavors!
My Favorite Restaurants in Lyon
Aside from Lyon’s famous bouchon culture, there are so many other restaurants that have really mastered their craft. Here are four of my favorites from when I lived in Lyon, including some that I’ve discovered during my recent visits!
1. Carmelo’s
Carmelo’s Italian restaurant was my absolute favorite restaurant when I lived in Lyon. I would come here with my friends for special occasions, and 9 times out of 10 we all ordered their famous truffle pasta because it’s just that good.
Not only is their food amazing, but the whole ambiance of the restaurant makes for an experience each time. I am obsessed with the interior of the restaurant, as each room has a different theme (I won’t spoil it for you) and all of the servers are extremely friendly, and speak Italian! Be sure to make a reservation at least a week in advance because Carmelo’s is a hot spot.
P.S. – Carmelo’s is a part of the Big Mamma Group, which has many locations, including in England, Germany, Monaco, and multiple in Paris! If you can’t make it to Carmelo’s in Lyon, it’s definitely worth checking out their other spots. I’ve been to one of their locations in Paris, and the quality is still top – and they all offer a different ambiance to experience!
La Clef de Voûte might just be my favorite spot in the whole city. This is an underground jazz club located in Croix Rousse, the 1st arrondissement, and is completely free to go to. All you have to pay for is your food and drinks if you choose, and leave a tip at the end for the musicians!
Right next door to La Clef de Voûte is a pizzeria called La Belle Vie that hand makes their pies every night. The combination of the incredible jazz music plus the fresh ingredients they incorporate into the pizzas is what makes this spot such a gem. The jazz club is only open Wednesday though Sunday, and be sure to make a reservation ahead of time!
Le Perko Café, despite being a café, deserves a spot on my list of favorite restaurants in Lyon because they have amazing crêpes! I first came here a few weeks after moving to Lyon, and immediately the owner made me feel welcome by saying this place can be my new home since I come from very far away. Since being so new to the city, this small gesture made me feel so welcome!
This café does everything right. They have one of the best cappuccinos I’ve ever had, and their galettes and crêpes are heavenly. Even their decor on the inside is so cozy, with swings for chairs along a hanging table! Definitely visit Le Perko Café when you visit Lyon.
4. Skepsi
Skepsi is a new restaurant to the gastronomy scene in Lyon but it has quickly become a new favorite of mine. This is an authentic Greek restaurant that imports their ingredients directly from Greece, and has a focus on traditional street food. I stumbled upon Skepsi on a recent trip to Lyon after visiting my favorite café Comme à la Maison in the 7th arrondissement, and immediately wished it had been around when I lived here!
At Skepsi, I tried their Merida bowl à la grecque which came with pita, brochettes of chicken, homemade fries, Greek salad (onions, feta cheese, tomatoes) and tzatziki sauce. It was so filling and flavorful!
Bonus: Best things to do in Lyon
If you’re looking for what are the must see site & things to do in Lyon, check out my blog for spending three days in the city!
I hope you enjoyed this detailed guide to the culinary scene in the Gastronomic Capital of the World, Lyon, France!
What are your thoughts on the traditional Lyonnaise cuisine? Is there a specific dish that you can’t get on board with? I would love to know your thoughts in the comments below!
Don’t forget to follow my blog to see where I travel to next!
Xx,
Carmela
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